Surf: Waist-Shoulder High mess. Strong Current.
I saw a pair of surfers standing on the beach for a while when I was suiting up. A softie and friend who I am guessing were hoping to ride whitewater. The north current on the inside shot them out of view very quickly. For anyone looking to just catch foam on a day like today today, take caution when currents are pushing hard. It’s a very short trip from messy unruly foam to OH GOD WHY sized whitewater.
Plenty sloppy on the outside, too. Got some fun rides out of it and a lot of sloshy sloshing. G stole way more waves from the jaws of slop than I did, but I’m happy enough with what I got.
While I was getting ready to leave, a guy drove up and cheered for having even gone out. Yay for friendly parking lot folks.
Debated rinsing my mouth out with some of the office scotch this morning to ward off any dirty water. There was a meeting going on in front of the booze and I didn’t want to disrupt them with my 9:30 shot o scotch. Maybe tomorrow.