Surf: Windy! 20-25knots. Waist-Chest High. 6.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 283°
Hoo hoo howdy. It’s plenty windy out there, plenty hard to catch, but plenty fun once you’ve got it. Cleaner than Wednesday, but a little more vengeful. Fair for the shoulders that held up, Poor+ if you count for vengefulness/closeouts. Ouch+ on the Hawaiian kickout I pulled on a wave about to close out on me on the inside.
I got a really fun wave that was evidently pissed I was able to break through the wind and catch it. Dropped me and my big board right into a churning unruly inside. After trying to fight that much foam back out, decided to call it a day early and fight the wind back to the lot instead.
Walking from the far north end to the lot was a battle. The wind was just howling. I had to stop and sit down at least once.
Packed up just in time to get out before the squall hit. Well, mostly. I’m pretty soaked. Stoked!
Weather got so rowdy there was a waterspout at ocean beach: