Imaginary Left

Surf: Low tide closeout fest. Full range of knee high to head high closeouts. Oww.

I have water in my ears, in my sinuses, and in the farthest reaches of my skull. I spent the luxurious winter with peeling left and rights and a sensible consistent rip so it’s been a while since I spent that much time getting stomped by closeouts. I spendt the morning trying to counteract the brain salt with a bearclaw.

Waveswise, I got a handfull of drop and wash waves of all shapes and sizes and one left that I can classify as a “ride.” Sun was great, water was nice and clear, surface was almost a little bit glassy, but the tide was not having any of it.

I snapped a pic that looked like a peeling left, but it was all lies