Month: January 2011

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Welcome home, Cowells

Surf: Slow, mellow knee-waist high waves. Clean. 6ft @ 14s from W 278º

Nice to be back in the water after my work trip.

The surf was plenty big in the city and, after almost 2 weeks dry, I figured a mellow SC session was in store. Shannon also had SC on her mind. We took her big surf van down there. I haven’t had the luxury of taking BOTH longboards before. Swanky!

Cowells was slow and sweet. I got man long, mellow rides in with long mellow paddles back out. I was beyond beat. It’s amazing how fast one gets out of shape.

The drive was beaut. The surf was firing all along the coast. I saw whales spouting, barrels being thrown, and some of the most beautiful sunsparkled mist I’ve seen in a while. Great day.

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Misty Montara

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Surf: Soft, but powerful. Mostly clean. 3.3ft @ 8.3s 247º WSW

I spent a long time standing in the lot looking at LM. It was barely breaking. Tiny ripples with far too many people already working them.

After some hemming and hawing, we looked further south.

I’m picky about Montara. It has to be small, it has to be clean, it has to be mellow.

I’d assumed that by now Luke had dragged J-Bird and Jacob out at Montara at least once, so I didn’t think anything about taking them out with us and skipped the “By the way, there’s a SHARP drop off right by the edge of the water” piece of advice and felt terrible as J-Bird disappeared in a loud splosh while getting in. Ooops! I’m a terrible surf guide!

Lots of fun waves and moody atmosphere. Saw Chris nail a big cutback with lots of spray! Yeah!

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Yay! Camera!

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Surf: Small, clean. Fun! 267º W 3ft at 14.8seconds

Chris got a camera! Today was a perfect day to try it out. Super mellow, peak all to ourselves. Great great great.

I got in a few paddle-less takeoffs (and a few not successful attempts) and some great rides. Chris got some pretty fun pictures (including a great video of me completely wiping out and the wave that took me out taking him out.) Hopefully I can repay the favor on another super fun little day.

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Not so bad Jetty

Surf: Inconsistent, but somewhat peeling. 6.6 ft @ 8.3 sec from NW 317º

Over drinks the night before, there were promises made of Sunday morning surf meet up. I said no no no, I couldn’t possibly. I’m tired, I’m not feeling well, excuse goes here. Well, I went anyway. The instigator of the plan didn’t show, but plenty of other folks did.

Standing in the lot I grumbled about how sloppy, small and uninspiring things looked. In the water things were much better. I got plenty of small smooth little rides. Not too shabby after all.

Afterwards we demolished some serious lunch. Good day spent with friends.

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Hats and Scarves

Surf:Inconsistent Waist-Shoulder high. 9.5 ft @ 16 sec from the NW 315º

Brr. Today felt colder than those days when the air temps were in the 30’s. Everyone in the lot was bundled in hats and scarves. Except for the hours of shivering after, there’s something pretty romantic about laughing with friends standing on the beach while all covered up in hats and mittens and scarves.

The waves were not so oddly picturesque. Indecisive warbley things. Hard to pick out. Got in a few fun rides but mostly paddle for lumps that turned out to be nothing or secretly 4 waves bunched together.

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Cookies

Surf: 7.9 Feet @ 14.8 Seconds 294º West NW

Plenty fun in the usual place. Lots of long left lines. Had to work a little harder today. Vs curent and vs softer waves.

I’d been bringing christmas cookies to the lot since getting back. For the most part it’s just been me and Chris mowing through them. Finally got around to distributing them a little better, handing a few off to Andrew.

Hopefully I’ll get around to making another batch.

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First Surf of 2011

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. 6.9 Feet @ 16 Seconds from the NW 310º

Hello 2011. You greet me with sunshine, a beautiful pink sky, and froggies singing in the marsh. Some pretty fun waves in the usual spot we’ve been so fortunate to enjoy this winter. Plenty of current and a little crowd to keep people on their toes.