Surf: Waist-Chest High. Somewhat closed out. 279º WNW 5.6 ft at 10 sec
YAWN. Slept through my alarm and missed the morning shift. I only have a few days to surf before heading back home for the holidays and the big family vacation so I went out anyway.
The usual left was plenty crowded and not doing much. I headed north to another left with a handful of shortboarders. I was happy to have the big board to get into these mushy waves, but they closed out pretty quick and the slog back out with that much foam was exhausting.
I got a few fun rides out of it though. One right I took was a big drop. I got a little bit of face and a top turn before bailing as it closed out. I paddled back to some wide eyes and compliments on what was evidently a huge swooping bottom turn. “Dang, I wish I’d had a camera!” one guy said. 😀
Big current. Whole ocean was pulling out and south. Wore myself out pretty good keeping in place and catching waves.