Surf: Thigh to Head high. Inconsistent. Warm offshore breeze.
Lots of hemming and hawing in the parking lot this morning. While tamer than the previous days, things were inconsistent. Some folks opted not to paddle out, we paddle out looking for something fun.
The first spot we tried was mushy and barely breaking. The next spot we tried up on the larger side was a lot more fun. Waves were still a bit funky, but fun. I got a few fun rides. I also dropped in on a dude. Dang. I didn’t see him on the inside of me in the sun. Luckily it was a pretty mellow morning and I could atone with lagging back on a few waves and steering clear for a while.
Fun moment when Daniel and I were on the inside of a cleanup set. He cheered for the oncoming beatdown. I was laughing so hard I almost didn’t get in a good breath before the wash cycle. I fought back out to get one to ride in. Nearly stomped myself in the shorebreak too. Gotta love a day that swings wildly from thigh high to head high from wave to wave.
Warm offshore sure was nice.