Surf: 2ft with a few larger 4ftish waves. Mellow, Clean.
In keeping with the theme of surfing big breaks on small days, Chris and I went back to Montara. It was mellow, clean, and best of all, uncrowded. I think at the most there were 5 people out and a few skim boarders. I was expecting it to be steeper like the last time out so I was struggling to get into the soft waves on my 9′.
Chris and I swapped boards. He got a few good waves on the 9′ which is about a foot and a half shorter, an inch thinner, and probably an inch narrower than his. It looked like a toy but he managed to make it work. I, on the other hand, still kooked things up on the 10’6. Some days are just like that. I also manage to put my whole hand inside a jellyfish while paddling out. Sigh.
After packing up, I sat on the cliff and watched the evening shift catch a few waves. There were dolphins goofing off outside the lineup and I got a kick of watching other surfers laugh and smile catching small waves. Not a bad day, even with the kookiness.