Surf: Inconsistent but better than expected. Large north, waist high south.
I’d spent a lot of the summer half worrying about fall. I like small waves. I like longboarding all year round. Fall means big waves. At some point last year (probably while being thrown around like a rag doll in a washing machine), I’d convinced myself I needed to learn to shortboard to be able to surf in the fall and winter.
The problem was, I didn’t really like it. There’s a lot I need to learn on a longboard and I just like it more. Committing to longboard life gave me this sinking feeling that I was going to be sitting out on a lot of surf days.
Thankfully, I’m not the only one who wants to keep pulling out a big ole board when the late year swells come in.
I was looking pretty skeptically at the buoy readings as Chris was trying to convince me that it would be “fine.” Showing up to a completely fogged in beach wasn’t making me feel any better either. But after suiting up, the fog cleared at bit and there were some fun little waves off in a sheltered corner of the beach.
It was a bit unnerving seeing the huge waves pushing through the fog up north, but reassuring to have a nice wave to ride out of the line of fire. Working on some winter confidence.