Surf: Waist high waves. A few chest high sets. Warm water.
It’s amazing how warm water can really brighten up a surf session. Had some pretty low expectations for this post work surf, but man was it worth it.
The air and water were so warm I skipped the booties for a barefoot ride.
It was pretty dang fun out there. Managed to get a little air on one wave and stick the landing. It was a total fluke so I laughed all the way in to the beach. Also got a nice long ride on a pretty sizeable wave compared to what I usually pick up. Head High according to Max.
I paddled back to Max and Chris hooting that I’d made it. I tend to go for the little waves no one else wants but was perfectly set up for that one. It was bumpy, a little funky, and I wasn’t sure I was going to make it, but I got it. 😀
We surfed till sunset and packed up in the dark.
I love summer and I’m having a lot of fun rocking the single fin.