SURF: 2-4ft, very mellow, very clean. Long period small south-southwest swell.
Gear: 10’6
A perfect longboard day spent on a shortboard is just cruel. A day like today is when longboards can really shine. They can catch even the smallest waves and float down the line like it’s nothing.
With the Stewart still off being repaired I was prepared to suffer in the 7’4. Thankfully Chris was up for a good longboard Saturday and lent me his 10’6. It’s a huge singlefin board that turns surprisingly well and had just the right amount of float to pick of anything coming by. It was great.
I love sitting in the lineup, spotting a hint of a wave no one else would give a second thought to, charging for it and getting a beautiful little line out of a wave that was barely even there. 😀
My friend Aaron (who has the most amazingly patched up Michel Junod longboard) came out with us after 3 months on land with a skiing injury. He got a few nice ones.
Chris and Luke both picked off their fair share and beautiful ones on both their longboards and the Alia. Great sunny day for everybody.
Taking the 10’6 home was a bit of a feat. 3 flights of winding stairs with that baby was hard work. At least I have 12ft ceilings. 😀
