SURF: Waist to Shoulder high. VERY Disorganized. Choppy, sloppy, and an all around mess.
Gear: 10’6.
Having finally recovered from the weekend and convinced by my friend’s stoke from the day before, I hit Linda Mar for a morning session. The clean organized waves he’d caught the day before were messy, nearly uncatchable and wildly unpredictable.
He managed to snag a few decent looking rides, a leash snap, and a long swim in to shore. I got one clean face for a few seconds and another that I swamped a rail on.
The leash snap got me thinking about protocol in a leash breaking situation. I did a quick check in with Chris who signaled he was okay, then scrambled over an incoming set. I felt like I should paddle in and stay with him till he made it to shore, but the waves suddenly picked up and I was doing my best to stay out of trouble. After some time underwater rolling about, I managed to spot him again, happily reunited with his board.
Had he not been confident he’d been able to swim in, I suppose we could have ridden out the set holding on to the monster 10’6 I was on just outside the impact zone. If I’d been closer to the beach than him, I wouldn’t have hesitated to chase down his board and hope both boards and myself would make it through the big set of waves. Thankfully another surfer on the inside was able to snag the board, get out of the way of incoming waves and hold on till Chris was able to get it from him. Whew.