SURF: 4-8ft.
I met a few stokereporters out for dawn patrol at Ocean Beach. I was optimistically assured by Josh it would be a nice 3-5 and good practice on the shortboard. Arg.
It was definitely bigger than I was expecting. I still haven’t been able to duck dive my 6’8 so all and all the morning was much harder than I anticipated. I let Veronica borrow my 7 that is nearly impossible to duck dive. She wound up ditching it and swimming with it in tow. I wanted to do things my way so she made it out and I didn’t.
Ahh well. It was a beautiful morning regardless. I did manage to bruise my leg up pretty good in the shorebreak. I’m not exactly sure what law of physics ocean beach had to break to administer that beatdown, but I got beatdown pretty good. 😉
Man, I got drilled into the sand too over the weekend. Must be something in the current swell. It’s angry and vindictive.
Love the smile in the second picture. It looks like the same nervous-anticipatory feeling I always get just before paddling out.
Ocean Beach is always a little vindictive! I got pitched on a wave and wound up slamming into my tail rail as the board slammed nose first into the sand. The bruise is pretty rad.
Yeah, Veronica and I were pretty nervous. Standing in the dark on the hill above where we were supposed to paddle out was intimidating. Neither of us surf Ocean Beach very often so there were a lot of butterflies while suiting up!