Swamped

LM-12-1-09

SURF: 3-4 ft. + waist to shoulder high with occasional 5 ft and fair to good conditions.

This morning’s dawn patrol: Mostly walled-up, glassy lines continue this morning, with some occasional lined-up, makeable corners through the inside.

A +7 high tide and freak big weekday crowd made Linda Mar a bit of a challenge today. Even after trying to get accustomed to crowds all weekend in SC, this was tough. It felt like every wave I was in position for had someone on the inside I wouldn’t have been able to avoid.

My arms are mush, the waves were mush, and there were a fair amount of growly people out in the water. I managed to get a few okay rides in, one good one, and two embarrassing screw ups. Wow. My arms are so worn out that I made a few pretty lousy mistakes today. My leash also got tangled up in my feet on the pop up and it was all slow, ungraceful falling after that.

The job I was supposed to start this week has been pushed back, possibly till next week. I’m not sure how to take this news. I now have three extra days to surf! But I’m also worn out from my recent surf marathon (surfed 5 straight days, or 7 out of the last 8). It’s nearly impossible to keep me out of the water because I’m “sore” or “tired”. I have a feeling I’ll be back out there tomorrow, burning out what’s left of my poor arms. Ha.

Additional Ha for the day: There’s me in the top right! Neat!