SURF: 3-4ft with 5ft standouts. A little inconsistent, not terribly clean but protected from the winds. Warm for the season, friendly and sunny.
Trying to wait out the high tide, Aaron and I rolled up to the Jetty early afternoon. Aaron has pretty much the raddest board ever. I need to snap a pic next time. It’s this old Mike Junrod 9’6 roundtail that someone had done years of home repair jobs on the dings that they then pained over with a variety of paint colors. The deck is red and white checkers. It’s one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen.
We managed to score wave after wave after wave. Sure, not the most epic waves but man it feels good to get something. I nailed my bottom turns, kept trim, threw in some slow gentle cutbacks. It was really really nice to not completely suck at surfing.
Good way to leave things before heading home for the holiday. Can’t wait to get back soon.