SURF: 2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high and fair conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Peaky, clean, soft lines, with some occasional workable little corners on tap.
After 5 days on the water I was pretty relieved to get a small wave report at Linda Mar. Just after paddling out I caught wave after wave. All nice, small, clean, pretty glassy.
Unfortunately, I’m really worn out. I caught every wave I went for except one, but each time my bottom turn was sloppy or I wasn’t angled enough in and I failed to get the board to trim and ride the face. I looked sloppy out there and I was getting more and more frustrated.
A guy tried to give me advice about angling in and I was absolutely crushed. I don’t know why, but I was really bummed that I was looking that bad in the water that the guy assumed I was just clueless instead of exhausted. He was trying to be nice so I smiled and said thanks, but man it hurt to realize I was doing about the same on waves as I was a year ago. I just hope my other sessions in this marathon haven’t been that embarrassing. I’m not sure I have the energy left for day 7.
Oh well, at least I got to surf and talk to some friendly folks.