SURF: 3-5ft, choppy, sloppy and cold.
I went out for a little paddle practice on the 7′. I’d stripped the wax off my longboard on friday assuming my job would start Monday. It’s probably for the best, Linda Mar was a mess. I could have made it into the line up with my longboard but the steep chopped up waves would have been hard to ride with that much board.
Instead I got sloshed around and eventually denied. My arms are really sore and tired from some labwork I had done at the docs (which also kept me from making it to day 7. Figured best not to put pincushion arms into the ocean). My duckdive skills are still non-existent. I paddled, got dumped, paddled, dumped, paddled, then boogies back to shore only to repeat the process.
It’s been really chilly lately (below 40 in the am) so half of getting out was just to prove to myself I’m not afraid of the cold.