SURF: 3-5 ft. waist to head high and fair to good conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Fun, semi-walled lines with racy corners through the inside. Expect sets around head high. Conditions are clean and glassy with light wind.
Conditions were a bit more mixed than reports suggested. I’ve been fighting off a cold since Thursday so I barely made it out.
Sunshine was wonderful, waves were mixed. I took the 6’8 out for more practice. I got a full little boogie board ride and almost caught a wave but I’m still struggling with how hard it is to paddle. It’s going to be a long time without be getting in any waves before I get this little guy wrangled right. I keep telling myself that I >WANT< to be a more well rounded surfer (in that I'm crappy on a variety of boards, ha) so I've been able to push through the awkwardness of a smaller board so far. Hopefully a few good longboard days will come up for me to recharge with an easy paddle and easy to catch waves. While walking home from my car with my board on Oak St, a dude gave me a shout out and threw me a Chaka. Totally made my day. 🙂