SURF: 3-5 ft. waist to head high and fair conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Just a slight texture to the surface with sectiony/broken up walls coming through. Plenty of scattered inside corners to work with.
Back on the 6’8. I am determined to ride this little board.
My duck dive practice on Monday was pretty uneventful. I don’t feel like I’m getting up the speed I need to complete the dive properly. Instead of spending the morning duck diving the whitewash, I paddled out past the lineup and started doing laps. I did two and a half laps from the south bathrooms to the north, or about 2500 ft total. I’m definitely getting more comfortable on the board. I was floating around just fine and paddling steady. It’s sooooo different than my 9’4. My Stewart paddles fast and easy. I could have done my laps in half the time with that board.
After recovering, I tried for a few waves. Most I was too slow to get on (practicing going for waves is just as important too) and one wave I actually managed to catch. I did a sloppy, wobbly job of trying to popup, I got to my knees and fell off laughing.
Small victories!