Back to Steeper Waves

LM-11-30-09

SURF: 3-5 ft. waist to head high with occasional 6 ft. and fair to good conditions.

This morning’s dawn patrol: Mostly walled-up, glassy lines with open, workable corners to be had.

After a few good days of solid longboard waves, I’m back to Pacifica and the steeper mix of things. I got a couple good rides in. I had pretty low expectations given that my arms were burned out from the weekend. I was very happy to have an easy paddle out, but was missing the speed I needed to get some of these waves.

In the end, wasn’t too shabby. Dolphins were out, sun was shining. That bumps up the positive points for sure.

I’ve noticed I’m starting to get a wetsuit necktan to match my mitten tan hands. I’m laughing thinking that now I’m looking about as awkward out of the water as I am in it. Perhaps SPF 35 isn’t cutting it for winter.