SURF: 2-3 ft knee to waist high and fair – conditions.
PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: Mostly clean, fun zone little waves are on offer this afternoon as our NW swell mix drops further. Better breaks have knee-waist high+ surf, with a few sets to chest high for standouts.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Peaky lines coming through with glassy, but soft corners.
Followed my sunset surf with a morning session to catch a few more small waves. Pulled on a still wet wetsuit and jumped on in. Waves were nice, a little mushy at the start but picked up. I did my fare share of paddling up and down the beach looking for waves to catch. It’s been ages since I was this sore after surfing.
I got two nice clean lefts in and a handful of sloppier waves. I’m trying to practice my lefts. I used to have no trouble going either direction, I guess I’ve been ignoring left for a few months or something. I got one wave and started on a bottom turn that was too aggressive for such a slow wave. I swamped the board and flailed off into the water. I want to get back out there asap, keep working on it.