SURF:
2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high and fair conditions. This morning’s dawn patrol: Glassy, mostly walled up lines, with a few workable corners through the inside.
I’ve been laid up in bed sick most of the week, the rest of the week I’ve been battling potential clients for contracts and “Sure thing” gigs that have fallen through.
Today the sun was out and, uncooperative lungs or not, I was going out.
Most of the waves were closed out, it was kinda crowded, but man, the sun was out and got some fresh air to heal my sad little lungs. Didn’t catch a single wave all day. I was huffing and puffing with every paddle and pearled the few waves I did catch. Ah well, at least I’m feeling better!