SURF:
2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high with occasional 4 ft. and fair conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Mostly walled up lines with inside shoulders that are open and workable, but a little soft and crumbly. Clean conditions.
Headed out early for another dawn patrol. Short swell period made a tough paddle out. Weather was beautiful. I got spooked pretty good by a tricky sea lion who decided to catch the same wave I did.
Nothing like seeing a 4ft long black shadow coming at you in a wave :p
I wussed out and sat on the beach for a good 20 minutes trying to get the nerve back up to charge out in the waves. Still didn’t really get any rides, but a nice day to be out.