SURF: 1-3 ft ankle to waist high and poor+ conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Weak, scattered peaks, with soft, semi-workable little corners on offer.
Wow. Today was a small, clean little day. It looked pretty unassuming from the beach, but man did I have fun. The waves were pretty easy to catch and gave some long mellow rides.
I caught two good waves for my first clean rides on the new board. I got a nice long right and another wave that gave me a few good turns including a left turn. That’s actually the first time I’ve ever turned left. I also made a few clean exits from the wave instead of just falling. Marked improvement is a big win for the confidence.