Conditions: Foggy. 4-6 ft with some 8ft standouts. Short swell period. Clearner in the morning, crumbly but harsh by noon.
Wow. I’ve never been out on a day so foggy. I couldn’t see the lineup from the shore. Swell period was so short and with low tide on the way we opted to walk the boards out instead of paddle and pick off whitewater and reform waves on the inside.
We got a bunch of fun quick rides that way. I practiced some right hand turns.
Pizza and beer was definitely a highlight after battling that mess. I’ve never had such an intense leg workout surfing! I’m looking forward to Monday’s S hemi swell and 85 degree temps. Who’s in? 😀