Conditions: Wow, good waves for good surfers, too big for me.*
Gear: Soft Top rental board from NorCal Surf Shop
Wow, crazy day to try my first Solo surf. The weather was beautiful. Waves, however, were a little scary. Conditions were definitely above my skill set. I panicked on the first wave I caught and immediately pearled. Somehow IÂ managed to get stuck under my board and spent some agonizing seconds wondering why on earth I’d insisted I could surf by myself after only 3 days in the waves.
I took my board, headed back to the beach and laid in the sun till some friends came. Kneeled on a wave or two after that, but mostly hung out in the whitewater boogie-board style.
*I’m gonna guess this was 4-7 ft, mostly on the higher end. Sets were far enough apart that I could still paddle out in the lulls, but once I caught a wave I really didn’t know what to do with it other than fall. Oh well, I guess it pays to practice falling too…