Surf: 2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high and poor-fair conditions.
PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: Semi-clean surf prevails this afternoon as our mix of NW wind/groundswell and SW swell continues. Better breaks have knee-waist high+ surf, with set to chest/shoulder high for standouts. There are a few workable corners and sections to be had if you have the time.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Foggy…expect clean semi-peaky lines with some workable corners.
Oww.
I dinged up my board pretty good today. I wiped out on a wave in such a way that the board pearled, was pulled under, then shot out the back of the wave before coming down rails first on my head. It hurt pretty good and it took a chunk out of my rails, but my head is fine. I was able to make it to shore okay and with a little ice I was right in no time.
I did get once nice little ride out of the day before hurting myself.
There was an awesome moment when I was paddling out over a wave and as the face started to steepen I could see hundreds of blue and green fish lit up in the sunlight. Totally beautiful.
Can’t wait to get back out (but hoping for fewer bumps and bruises).
Oh man! You did that with your head?! That had to be a mighty clunk to crack the fiberglass like that.
It sure was! Oww. My head STILL hurts.
The wave that took me out pretty much launched my board straight up in the air and right back down rails first onto me. I was really shocked, I didn’t think it was that messy of a fall but the way the waves were breaking the board took on a lot more energy than expected.
It certainly could have been a lot worse and I’m very thankful it wasn’t. It’s my first ding so I was much more upset about the board then my noggin at the time. Now I’m just glad I didn’t need stitches. A board is easier to patch and makes a better story.
I’m hoping to be back in the water soon, possibly with a helmet. 😉
You know, I always have my worst accidents in small surf like that. I guess I’m less careful when the perceived danger is low. (But clearly I’ve been hit in the head enough times not to have learned this lesson and will probably continue to hurt myself in the small surf.)